Stuart Press Clothing Books

New 1558-1660 Clothing Series

Clothes of the Common People In Elizabethan and Early Stuart England

This series encapsulates 6 years of research and experimentation by the team based on the examination of over 71,000 books published before 1660, over 18,000 will and inventories and a wide range of sources from archive papers to artefacts. All conclusions are sourced and cross referenced. The first six appendices are an in-depth discussion of why certain illustrations were chosen or rejected.

This series has been written as a fully integrated whole and nothing like this has ever been produced before [or is likely to be again]. This revision of the original series makes major changes to the information available on common clothing of the Elizabethan/Jacobean period in England.

This series is by far the most detailed and all embracing study of the costume of the normal people of England so far undertaken for the period of Elizabeth, Shakespeare and the English Civil War. It draws on the study of surviving garments, paintings, plasterwork, over 18,000 wills and inventories and over 71,000 pre 1660 books and pamphlets. It rigorously examines and justifies whether the original evidence is trustworthy before moving on to analyse the nature of the clothes and how to construct replicas.

All volumes are $14 except for Volumes 6 which is $27 and Volume 35 is $44

Volume 1: The Materials:
The Evidence and Construction Methods
Volume 2: The Materials: Haberdashery
Volume 3: The Materials:
Woollen Textile - (Woven)
Volume 4: The Materials:
Linens, Silks, and other Non-Woollen Textile
 Part I: The Evidence
1 - Pictures
2 - Words
3 - Materal Remains
4- Period Terminology
Part 2: Construction Techniues
5- Clothing Construction Methods
6-The Stiches
7-Garment Construction
1- Pattern Making
2-Corpus Guide
3-Short Glossary
Chapter 1 - Thread
Chapter 2 - Lace and Ribbons
Thread or tapes?, Inkle, Cruel and Caddas, Lists, Ribbon and Tapes,
Lace Statute, Parchment, Bone Laces, Other Laces, Fringe
Chapter 3 - Fastenings: Points
Laces and Strings
Hooks, Eyes and Clasps
Chapter 4 - Buttons
Cloth, Thread and Hair, Glass, Silk, Metal, Great and Handkerchief Buttons, Reproducing Butons

Revises information in the previous version based on more primary source material.








Linens: Imported Linens, English Linens, Production of Flax and Hemp Cloth, Bleaching Yarn and Cloth
Linen Fabrics Used for Common Peoples Clothing: Canvas, Hurden, Harden, Towen, Noggen, Lockram,Osnaburg Linen, Minor continetial imports, Scotch Cloth, Huswife cloth, Fine Linens: Holland, Cambric, Lawn and TIffany, Damaske, Surviving Linen Fabrics, Colured Linens, Calico, Nettle Cloth
Non Linen MonoVegetable Fabrics: Interliner, Buckram
Uncertain Fabrics: Sackcloth, LinseyWoolsey
Silks: Raw Silk and Silk Yarn, Silk Fabric, Taffeta, Sarsnet, Rash, Grograin, Chamlet and Damask,Satin, Velvet, Phillip and Chainey
Volume 5: The Materials:
Fustians, Knitting, Felt, Furs, Skins, Leather, Stiffening and Padding

 Volume 6: Dyeing



Volume 7: Who Wore What and When. Part 1-Clothing Acquisition, Regional and Ethnic Variations, Maintenance & Sewing Equipment
Volume 8: Who Wore What and When.
Part 2: Rural.
Fustians: Dutch, Milan, Jean, Holmes, The nature of Fustians
Felt: Making Felt, Felt Making Wools
Furs: Furs produced in England
Skins: Leather, Bark Tanning, Liming, Barking, Currying
Bark Tanned Leathers and Tanners: Cattle and Calves, Horse, Goat, Sheep or Basil, Dog
Sumach Tanned Leather: Spanish leather, White Tawed Leather, Spruce leather, Chamois, Oiled leathers
The Leathers Used for Clothing by Common People: Stiffening, Stuffing
The Colours of Common Peoples Clothing
The Nature of the Colours: Red, Stammel and Scarlet, Blue and Plunket, Green and Yellow, Minor Colors
The Dyeing Industry: Commercial Dyers: The Evidence, Commercial Dyers: Equipment, Commercial Dyers: Premises, Craftsman Dyers, Poor Country Dyers
The Materials: Water, Bran Water
Dyestuffs: Red (Madder, Brazil Wood, Grains, Kermes and Chochineal), Yellow (Weld, Dyers Broom and Fustic), Blue (Woad, Indigo, Litchen dyes: Orchil, Cork and Litmus, Black and Puke Dyes, Logwood in Compound Dyes)
The Processes: Dyeing Wool
Simple Colours: Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, Compound Colours, Dyeing Silk, Dyeing Linen, Dyeing Leather
Experimental History: Reproducing period dyes
Appendix 1: Replicating period dyed fabrics
Glossary, Bibliography and Abbreviations
1. Clothing Acquisition: Acquiring the Componets, Middle Class Clothes, Labouring Class Clothes, The Dependant Poor, Imported Clothes, Second Hand Clothes
2.Duration and Quantity: How long did clothes last? How much clothing did they have?
3. Ethnic Minorities
4. English Variations: English Regional Variations, THe Rual-Urban divide, The Military-Civilian divide, Holiday Clothes, Nightwear
5. Repair and Maintenance: Washing, Repair
6. Sewing Equipment: Pins, Needles, Thimbles, Awls and Bodkins, Scissors and Shears, Irons, Marking Out
Charcoal Burners
Labourers Wives
Agriculural servants
Husbandmen's Wives
Yeomen's Wives
Rural Travellers
Vagabonds and Beggers
Morris Dancers
Servants in High Status Households
Volume 9: Who Wore What and When - Urban.
Volume 10: Men's Garments: Doublets Part 1. Volume 11: Doublets Part 2 - Male Petticoats and Male Wasitcoats. Volume 12: Men's Garments: Jerkins, Jackets and Mandillions.
Artizans: Bakers, Barbers, Blacksmiths, Smiths, Farriers,Brewers, Brewers Dreyman, Bricklayers and Brickmakers, Butchers, Button Makers, Capper, Carpenters, Box Makers, Joiners, Carters, Chimney Sweeps, Clothiers, Cobblers, Collar Makers, Collectors of Food for Prisoners, Cooks and Confectioners, Cooper and Hoopers, Corpse Bearer, Cutler, Draper [Woollen], Fellmonger,, Fishmonger, Fletcher, Fuller, Geder, Glazier, Glover, Crocer, Informer, Inn holder, Ironmonger, Masons and Freemasons,Maltster, Mercer, Millers and Meal Men, Porters, Potter, Poulterer, Printer, Rat catcher, Rippier, Ropemakers, Saddler, Sedan Chair, Shipwright, Shoemakers, Soap Boiler, Surveyor, Tailors, Tanners and Whittawers, Tapsters and Serving Men, Tiler, Tinker, Town Crier, Turner, Vituler,Vitner, Waterman, Water Bearer, Weavers, Shearmen and Clothworkers, Wheelwrights
Apprentices and Artizans: Servants
Street Vendors: Male, Female
Security Workers: Bell Men and Constables, Jailors
Doublet Definition
The Doublet Body
Lining Materials
The nature of Fustians
Waistbands: Hooks and Eyes or Points
Quantities of Materials
The Materials: Fustian, Canvas, Leather, Woolen, Luxury fabrics, Military Issue Doublets, The Colours
Doublet Styles: Flange, Skirt, 4 tab Reigate, Mini Square Tab, 6 to 8 Square Tab, 8 Tab pointed, Decortive running flange or tabs, Doublet Stripe Front, Back Construction, Belt or Welt, Shoulder Wings
1. Surviving Doublets:
Reigate Doublet
V&A Doublet
2. Reproducing Doublets:
Doublet Tab Construction
Flange 1558-1620
Reigate 4 tab 1600-1625
Mini Square tab 1605-1626 and 1650's
6-8 square tab 1610-1660
8 tab pointed [broad] 1630-1650
3. Male Petticoats
4. Male Waistcoats
5. Reproducing Male Waistcoats:
Red Long Sleeved 1600-1660?
Massachusetts Green 1629
Jerkin Sleeves
Jerkin Types:
Protectie Leather
Warm Woollen
Jerkin Doublets
Short Arm Jerkins
Jerkin Linings
Decoration and Fastenings
Jerkin Materials
Jerking Colours
Surviving Jerkins
Cut or Pinked leather jerkins
Jerkin Patterns
Detachable Sleeves
Mandillion Patterns
 Volume 13: Men's Garments:
Coats and Cassocks.
Volume 14: Men's Garments:
Gowns, Frocks and Cloaks.
Volume 15: Men's Garments:
Legwear part 1.
Volume 16: Men's Garments:
Legwear part 2.
Detachable Sleeves
Coat Colours
Coat Construction
Coat Decoration
Horseman's Coat
Jump Coat
Livery Coats
Mourning Coats
Privy Coats and Turned Coats
Coat Styles
The Maldon Coat
Military Coats
Coat Reconstructions and Patterns
Sailors Cassocks
Canvas Cassocks
Land Based Civillian Cassocks
Military Cassocks
Cassocks' Reconstruction and Pattern
Gowns:Gown Colours, Gown Materials,
Linings and Facings, Construction, Cloaks
Gown Styles: Mourning
Early Full Sleeve Gowns
Half Split Sleeve Gowns
Wide Caped and Short Gowns
Cloak Construction
Cloak Colours
Cloak Materials
Coak Styles:
Mourning and Livery Cloaks
Knee Length Caped Cloaks
Mantles and Rockets
Cloak Bags
Frock Reconstructions
Hose Construction:
Hose Materials
Hose Colours
Early Elizabethan Hose Styles:
Round Hose
French Hose
Gallygaskins and Early Deflater Hose
Later Deflater Hose
Trunk Hose
Hose, Stocks and Breeches nomenclature
Breeches Material
Breeches Colours
Part 1: Evidence
Breeches Construction and Decoration, Linings, Ornamentation
Breeches Styles: Above the Knee BaggyBreeches, Later Tapering Breeches, Open Leg
Side and Waist Fastenings
Surviving Garements
Breeches Pockets
Part 2: Recostruction:
Reconstructing Replica Male Legwear
Attaching Breeches to Doublets with Points
Men in Tights
Chav Breeches
Slops and Open legged breeches
Uncommon French Hose
Deflater Hose
Above the Knee
Baggy Breeches
Simple Breeches
Tapering Breeches
Volume 17: Men's Garments: Drawers, Linens and Aprons.
Volume 18: Unisex Accessories: Stockings, Garters, Gloves Belts, Badge and Pouches, and Jewellry.
Volume 19: Unisex Garments: Headwear.
Volume 20: Unisex Garments:
Male Legwear Part 3:
Male Darwers and Slivers
Scalings or Scavilones
Male Lines:
Male Shirts
Bands and Collars
Ruff Cuffs
Handkerchiefs and neck cloths
Male Aprons
Stockings: Netherstocks, Stockings and Hose
Stocking Styles: Knitted Stockings, Cloth Stockings, Non Wollen Stockings, Stocking Colours, Boot Hose and Socks, Making Cloth Cut Stockings, Making Knitted Stockings
Gloves: Agricultural Gloves, Other Gloves, Women's Gloves
Belts and Girdles
Wearing Knives, Keys and other items
Bags, Purses and Pouches: Black Boxes, Money Bags, Day Bags, Waist Bags, Purses, Snapsacks
Bare Heads: Men, Cutting Hair, Wigs, Facial Hair, Women's Hair
Caps: Cap Making
Types of Caps: Monteroes, Monmouth Caps, Baltic Caps, Buttoned Caps, Labourers Caps, Nightcaps and other Caps, Women's Caps, Coloured Caps, Welsh Wigs
Hats: Common Peoples Hat Materials, Felt Hats, Non Felt Hats, Hat Colours and Construction, Straw Hats, Women's Hat Styles Men's Hat Styles, Hat Bands, Hat Band Styles, Accessories and Maintenance
Period Footwear Terminology: Boots, Lower Calf Length books, High Shoes and Low Shoes, Buckled high shoes, Calf Length boots, Startups, Buskins, Gallowshes and Pantofles, Slipper and Patterns
Footwear Styles: Slip On, Latchet, Shoes with Stepped Heels
Shoe Decoration
Shoe Sizes
Shoe Prices
Shoe Making: 2 and 3 soled shoes, Raw Materials
Shoe Weights
Speed of Production
Shoe Repairs
Surviving Footwear
Reproduction of Common Period Footwear
Using Period Footwear: Experimental History Results
References and Abbreviations
Volume 21: Women's Outer Garments: Coats, Petticoats, Frocks, Kirtles and Safeguards. Volume 22: Women's Gowns, Cassocks, Waistcoats, Jerkins and Cloaks.  Volume 23: Women's Linens and Aprons.  Volume 24 Children's Garments.
 Introduction to Woman's Garments
Women's Coats
Women's Petticoats:
No BoningRegulations
Overbody Patterns
Petticoat Patterns
Detachable Sleeves
Women's Garments Part 2
Constructing Replicas
Series Contents
Hair Styles
Napkins, Quarters and Crosscloths
Kerchers and Kerchiefs
Headcloths, Headkerchiefs & Forehead cloths
Cauls and Bonegraces
Bandanas, Facecloths, Face Kerchers & Mufflers
Neckwear and Cuffs:
Kerchers and Handkerchers round the neck
Neckwear with bands
Rails round the neck and Partlets
Ruffs, Hand Ruffs and Cuffs
The Swadled Babe
Male Children:
Young Boys (to about age 8)
Older Boys (8-14)
Female Children
Younger Girls
Great Wenches
School Uniforms
Children's Footwear
Destitute Children
 Volume 25: Soldiers Clothing: 1558-1638.  Volume 26: Military Clothing of the English Civil War 1639-1649.  Volume 27: Appendix 1: The Corpus Justified Part 1 1558-1625.  Volume 28: Appendix 1: The Corpus Justified Part 2 1625-1660.
This appendix sets the reasons why these illustrations are valid representation of common English people between 1558-1660. It also covers andy linked mention of costume in the accompanying texts. The images themselves are given more prominence in Appendix 2 "The Corpus", in this appendix they are only in thumbnail form for reference unless important to a point being illustrated. The images are arranged in this appendix in date order:
 Volume 29: Appendix 2: Introduction and Corpus; Solid part 1 1558-1629.  Volume 30: Appendix 2 (Continued): The Corpus: Solid Part 2, Circa and Maritime.  Volume 31: Appendix 2 (Completed): The Corpus 3: No Later than [NL] and Orphans [NLO].

 Volume 32: Appendix 3: Reasoned Rejects.

Corpus Introduction nd Key
Corpus: Solid Part 1 from 1558-1629(s)
Corpus: Solid Part 2 from 1630-1660(s)
Corpus: Circa (c)
Corpus: Maritime
Corpus: No Later Than (nl)
Corpus: Orphans (nlo)
1. Unreliable Evidence
2. Reasoned Rejects
The Corpus Pictorum or body of illustrations contains those period illustrations which show information relating to the clothing of the common people of England and Wales between 1558 and 1660. The Corpus fills volumes 29, 30 and 31. Each image is classified as either Solid, No Later Than, Orphan, Circa or Maritime (see above) and the images are grouped firstly by those classifications and within those classicfications areordered chronologically. The Corpus Justified, volumes 27 & 28, explains why each llustration has been given the classification and corpus number it holds. Reasoned Rejects, volume 32, explains why certain images have been excluded from the corpus.
This volume contains 2 chapters. The first expands on some brief comments in Volume one on the problems with much of the pictorial evidence from the period and is based on a lecture tour given in 2011 entitled "ost of the Originial Evidence is Wrong". Chapter 2 provides systematic explanations image by image for the exclusions of many commonly used period illustrations from the corpus.

 Volume 33: Surviving garments.

Volume 34: Abbreviations, Bibliography and Conclusions. Volume 35: The Users Manual: a synoptic guide.  Volume 36: The English Abroad: Slaves, Colonists and Sailors.
1. Materials - Fabrics, Haberdashery, The Colours of Clothing
2. Who Wore What and When
3. Mens' Doublets
4. Mens' Breeches
5. Men's Undergarments and Linens: Waistcoats, and Pettycoats, Shirts, Collars and Aprons
6. Men's Overgarmets: Jerkins, Mandillions and Cassocks, Coats, Gowns, Frocks and Cloaks
7. Womans' Garments and Overbodies: Petticoats and Overbodies, Kirtles and Cassocks
8. Woman's Waistcoats and Overgarments: Waistcoats, Gowns and Cloaks
9. Womans' Linens and Infants' Garments
10. Accessories: Stockings,Garters and Gloves, Headware and Footwear
11. Constructio of Replicas
Appendix 1: Short Glossary
Appendix 2: The Corpus [CP numbers]


 The Soldier's Life in the English Civil War
Organisation, Food, Clothing, Weapons and Combat - Stuart Peachey - This book forms essential reading for anyone trying to reconstruct, interpret or understand the life of the common English soldier of the period.
Book #: Stuart464
ISBN: 978-1-85804-
General Editor: Stuart Peachy
Pages: 208 pages
Size: Soft Cover Book (approx. " x")
Produced & printed in England
Price: $44.00

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