Stuart Press Clothing Books

New 1558-1660 Clothing Series

Clothes of the Common People In Elizabethan and Early Stuart England

This series encapsulates 6 years of research and experimentation by the team based on the examination of over 71,000 books published before 1660, over 18,000 will and inventories and a wide range of sources from archive papers to artefacts. All conclusions are sourced and cross referenced. The first six appendices are an in-depth discussion of why certain illustrations were chosen or rejected.

This series has been written as a fully integrated whole and nothing like this has ever been produced before [or is likely to be again]. This revision of the original series makes major changes to the information available on common clothing of the Elizabethan/Jacobean period in England.

This series is by far the most detailed and all embracing study of the costume of the normal people of England so far undertaken for the period of Elizabeth, Shakespeare and the English Civil War. It draws on the study of surviving garments, paintings, plasterwork, over 18,000 wills and inventories and over 71,000 pre 1660 books and pamphlets. It rigorously examines and justifies whether the original evidence is trustworthy before moving on to analyse the nature of the clothes and how to construct replicas.

All volumes are $14 except for Volumes 6 which is $27 and Volume 35 is $44

Volume 1: The Materials: The Evidence and Construction Methods	Volume 2: The Materials: Haberdashery	Volume 3: The Materials: Woollen Textile - (Woven)	Volume 4: The Materials: Linens, Silks, and other Non-Woollen Textile
Part I: The Evidence 1 - Pictures 2 - Words 3 - Materal Remains 4- Period Terminology Part 2: Construction Techniues 5- Clothing Construction Methods 6-The Stiches 7-Garment Construction Appendices 1- Pattern Making 2-Corpus Guide 3-Short Glossary	Chapter 1 - Thread Chapter 2 - Lace and Ribbons Thread or tapes?, Inkle, Cruel and Caddas, Lists, Ribbon and Tapes, Lace Statute, Parchment, Bone Laces, Other Laces, Fringe Chapter 3 - Fastenings: Points Laces and Strings Hooks, Eyes and Clasps Chapter 4 - Buttons Cloth, Thread and Hair, Glass, Silk, Metal, Great and Handkerchief Buttons, Reproducing Butons	Revises information in the previous version based on more primary source material.	Linens: Imported Linens, English Linens, Production of Flax and Hemp Cloth, Bleaching Yarn and Cloth   Linen Fabrics Used for Common Peoples Clothing: Canvas, Hurden, Harden, Towen, Noggen, Lockram,Osnaburg Linen, Minor continetial imports, Scotch Cloth, Huswife cloth, Fine Linens: Holland, Cambric, Lawn and TIffany, Damaske, Surviving Linen Fabrics, Colured Linens, Calico, Nettle Cloth Non Linen MonoVegetable Fabrics: Interliner, Buckram   Uncertain Fabrics: Sackcloth, LinseyWoolsey   Silks: Raw Silk and Silk Yarn, Silk Fabric, Taffeta, Sarsnet, Rash, Grograin, Chamlet and Damask,Satin, Velvet, Phillip and Chainey
Volume 5: The Materials: Fustians, Knitting, Felt, Furs, Skins, Leather, Stiffening and Padding	Volume 6: Dyeing	Volume 7: Who Wore What and When. Part 1-Clothing Acquisition, Regional and Ethnic Variations, Maintenance & Sewing Equipment	Volume 8: Who Wore What and When. Part 2: Rural.
Fustians: Dutch, Milan, Jean, Holmes, The nature of Fustians   Knitting   Felt: Making Felt, Felt Making Wools   Furs: Furs produced in England   Skins: Leather, Bark Tanning, Liming, Barking, Currying   Bark Tanned Leathers and Tanners: Cattle and Calves, Horse, Goat, Sheep or Basil, Dog   Sumach Tanned Leather: Spanish leather, White Tawed Leather, Spruce leather, Chamois, Oiled leathers   The Leathers Used for Clothing by Common People: Stiffening, Stuffing	The Colours of Common Peoples Clothing The Nature of the Colours: Red, Stammel and Scarlet, Blue and Plunket, Green and Yellow, Minor Colors The Dyeing Industry: Commercial Dyers: The Evidence, Commercial Dyers: Equipment, Commercial Dyers: Premises, Craftsman Dyers, Poor Country Dyers The Materials: Water, Bran Water Chemicals Dyestuffs: Red (Madder, Brazil Wood, Grains, Kermes and Chochineal), Yellow (Weld, Dyers Broom and Fustic), Blue (Woad, Indigo, Litchen dyes: Orchil, Cork and Litmus, Black and Puke Dyes, Logwood in Compound Dyes) The Processes: Dyeing Wool Simple Colours: Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, Compound Colours, Dyeing Silk, Dyeing Linen, Dyeing Leather Experimental History: Reproducing period dyes Appendix 1: Replicating period dyed fabrics Glossary, Bibliography and Abbreviations	1. Clothing Acquisition: Acquiring the Componets, Middle Class Clothes, Labouring Class Clothes, The Dependant Poor, Imported Clothes, Second Hand Clothes   2.Duration and Quantity: How long did clothes last? How much clothing did they have?   3. Ethnic Minorities   4. English Variations: English Regional Variations, THe Rual-Urban divide, The Military-Civilian divide, Holiday Clothes, Nightwear   5. Repair and Maintenance: Washing, Repair   6. Sewing Equipment: Pins, Needles, Thimbles, Awls and Bodkins, Scissors and Shears, Irons, Marking Out	Labourers Charcoal Burners Shepherds Labourers Wives Agriculural servants Farmers Husbandmen Yeomen Husbandmen's Wives Yeomen's Wives Rural Travellers Vagabonds and Beggers Musicians Morris Dancers Witches Servants in High Status Households Seafarers
Volume 9: Who Wore What and When - Urban.	Volume 10: Men's Garments: Doublets Part 1.	Volume 11: Doublets Part 2 - Male Petticoats and Male Wasitcoats.	Volume 12: Men's Garments: Jerkins, Jackets and Mandillions.
Artizans: Bakers, Barbers, Blacksmiths, Smiths, Farriers,Brewers, Brewers Dreyman, Bricklayers and Brickmakers, Butchers, Button Makers, Capper, Carpenters, Box Makers, Joiners, Carters, Chimney Sweeps, Clothiers, Cobblers, Collar Makers, Collectors of Food for Prisoners, Cooks and Confectioners, Cooper and Hoopers, Corpse Bearer, Cutler, Draper [Woollen], Fellmonger,, Fishmonger, Fletcher, Fuller, Geder, Glazier, Glover, Crocer, Informer, Inn holder, Ironmonger, Masons and Freemasons,Maltster, Mercer, Millers and Meal Men, Porters, Potter, Poulterer, Printer, Rat catcher, Rippier, Ropemakers, Saddler, Sedan Chair, Shipwright, Shoemakers, Soap Boiler, Surveyor, Tailors, Tanners and Whittawers, Tapsters and Serving Men, Tiler, Tinker, Town Crier, Turner, Vituler,Vitner, Waterman, Water Bearer, Weavers, Shearmen and Clothworkers, Wheelwrights Apprentices and Artizans: Servants Street Vendors: Male, Female Security Workers: Bell Men and Constables, Jailors	Doublet Definition   The Doublet Body   Lining Materials   Sleeves   Holmes   The nature of Fustians   Waistbands: Hooks and Eyes or Points   Decoration   Quantities of Materials   The Materials: Fustian, Canvas, Leather, Woolen, Luxury fabrics, Military Issue Doublets, The Colours   Doublet Styles: Flange, Skirt, 4 tab Reigate, Mini Square Tab, 6 to 8 Square Tab, 8 Tab pointed, Decortive running flange or tabs, Doublet Stripe Front, Back Construction, Belt or Welt, Shoulder Wings	1. Surviving Doublets: Reigate Doublet V&A Doublet   2. Reproducing Doublets: Doublet Tab Construction Flange 1558-1620 Reigate 4 tab 1600-1625 Mini Square tab 1605-1626 and 1650's 6-8 square tab 1610-1660 8 tab pointed [broad] 1630-1650   3. Male Petticoats   4. Male Waistcoats   5. Reproducing Male Waistcoats: Red Long Sleeved 1600-1660? Massachusetts Green 1629	Jerkins: Jerkin Sleeves Composition   Jerkin Types: Protectie Leather Warm Woollen Jerkin Doublets Short Arm Jerkins   Jerkin Linings Decoration and Fastenings Jerkin Materials Jerking Colours Surviving Jerkins Cut or Pinked leather jerkins Jerkin Patterns Detachable Sleeves   Jackets: Materials Colour Construction   Mandillions Mandillion Patterns
Volume 13: Men's Garments: Coats and Cassocks.	Volume 14: Men's Garments: Gowns, Frocks and Cloaks.	Volume 15: Men's Garments: Legwear part 1.	Volume 16: Men's Garments: Legwear part 2.
Coats: Detachable Sleeves Coat Colours Coat Construction Coat Decoration Horseman's Coat Jump Coat Livery Coats Mourning Coats Privy Coats and Turned Coats Coat Styles The Maldon Coat Military Coats Coat Reconstructions and Patterns   Cassocks: Sailors Cassocks Canvas Cassocks Land Based Civillian Cassocks Military Cassocks Cassocks' Reconstruction and Pattern	Gowns:Gown Colours, Gown Materials, Linings and Facings, Construction, Cloaks   Gown Styles: Mourning Early Full Sleeve Gowns Half Split Sleeve Gowns Wide Caped and Short Gowns   Cloaks: Cloak Construction Cloak Colours Cloak Materials   Coak Styles: Mourning and Livery Cloaks Knee Length Caped Cloaks Mantles and Rockets Cloak Bags   Frocks Gaberdines Frock Reconstructions	Attachment   Hose Construction: Hose Materials Hose Colours   Early Elizabethan Hose Styles: Round Hose French Hose Gallygaskins and Early Deflater Hose Venetians Later Deflater Hose Trunk Hose   Hose, Stocks and Breeches nomenclature   Breeches: Breeches Material Breeches Colours	Part 1: Evidence Breeches Construction and Decoration, Linings, Ornamentation Breeches Styles: Above the Knee BaggyBreeches, Later Tapering Breeches, Open Leg Trousers Side and Waist Fastenings Surviving Garements Breeches Pockets   Part 2: Recostruction: Reconstructing Replica Male Legwear Attaching Breeches to Doublets with Points Men in Tights Chav Breeches Slops and Open legged breeches Uncommon French Hose Deflater Hose Venetians Above the Knee Baggy Breeches Simple Breeches Tapering Breeches
Volume 17: Men's Garments: Drawers, Linens and Aprons.	Volume 18: Unisex Accessories: Stockings, Garters, Gloves Belts, Badge and Pouches, and Jewellry.	Volume 19: Unisex Garments: Headwear.	Volume 20: Unisex Garments: Footwear.
Male Legwear Part 3: Male Darwers and Slivers Trusses Scalings or Scavilones   Male Lines: Male Shirts Bands and Collars Ruffs Ruff Cuffs Handkerchiefs and neck cloths   Male Aprons	Stockings: Netherstocks, Stockings and Hose   Stocking Styles: Knitted Stockings, Cloth Stockings, Non Wollen Stockings, Stocking Colours, Boot Hose and Socks, Making Cloth Cut Stockings, Making Knitted Stockings   Garters   Gloves: Agricultural Gloves, Other Gloves, Women's Gloves   Belts and Girdles Badges Wearing Knives, Keys and other items Bags, Purses and Pouches: Black Boxes, Money Bags, Day Bags, Waist Bags, Purses, Snapsacks   Jewellry	Bare Heads: Men, Cutting Hair, Wigs, Facial Hair, Women's Hair   Caps: Cap Making   Types of Caps: Monteroes, Monmouth Caps, Baltic Caps, Buttoned Caps, Labourers Caps, Nightcaps and other Caps, Women's Caps, Coloured Caps, Welsh Wigs   Hats: Common Peoples Hat Materials, Felt Hats, Non Felt Hats, Hat Colours and Construction, Straw Hats, Women's Hat Styles Men's Hat Styles, Hat Bands, Hat Band Styles, Accessories and Maintenance	Period Footwear Terminology: Boots, Lower Calf Length books, High Shoes and Low Shoes, Buckled high shoes, Calf Length boots, Startups, Buskins, Gallowshes and Pantofles, Slipper and Patterns   Footwear Styles: Slip On, Latchet, Shoes with Stepped Heels   Shoe Decoration Shoe Sizes Shoe Prices Shoe Making: 2 and 3 soled shoes, Raw Materials Shoe Weights Speed of Production Shoe Repairs Surviving Footwear Reproduction of Common Period Footwear Using Period Footwear: Experimental History Results References and Abbreviations
Volume 21: Women's Outer Garments: Coats, Petticoats, Frocks, Kirtles and Safeguards.	Volume 22: Women's Gowns, Cassocks, Waistcoats, Jerkins and Cloaks.	Volume 23: Women's Linens and Aprons.	Volume 24 Children's Garments.
Introduction to Woman's Garments   Women's Coats   Women's Petticoats: Overbodies No BoningRegulations Overbody Patterns Petticoat Patterns Detachable Sleeves   Kirtles   Frocks   Safeguards	Women's Garments Part 2 Gowns Cassocks Waistcoats Jerkins Cloaks Constructing Replicas Series Contents	Hair Styles   Headwear: Napkins, Quarters and Crosscloths Kerchers and Kerchiefs Rails Headcloths, Headkerchiefs & Forehead cloths Coifs Cauls and Bonegraces Bandanas, Facecloths, Face Kerchers & Mufflers   Neckwear and Cuffs: Neckerchers Kerchers and Handkerchers round the neck Neckwear with bands Rails round the neck and Partlets Ruffs, Hand Ruffs and Cuffs	Introduction   The Swadled Babe   Babies   Male Children: Young Boys (to about age 8) Older Boys (8-14)   Female Children Younger Girls Great Wenches   School Uniforms Children's Footwear Destitute Children
Volume 25: Soldiers Clothing: 1558-1638.	Volume 26: Military Clothing of the English Civil War 1639-1649.	Volume 27: Appendix 1: The Corpus Justified Part 1 1558-1625.	Volume 28: Appendix 1: The Corpus Justified Part 2 1625-1660.
		This appendix sets the reasons why these illustrations are valid representation of common English people between 1558-1660. It also covers andy linked mention of costume in the accompanying texts. The images themselves are given more prominence in Appendix 2 "The Corpus", in this appendix they are only in thumbnail form for reference unless important to a point being illustrated. The images are arranged in this appendix in date order:
Volume 29: Appendix 2: Introduction and Corpus; Solid part 1 1558-1629.	Volume 30: Appendix 2 (Continued): The Corpus: Solid Part 2, Circa and Maritime.	Volume 31: Appendix 2 (Completed): The Corpus 3: No Later than [NL] and Orphans [NLO].	Volume 32: Appendix 3: Reasoned Rejects.
Corpus Introduction nd Key Corpus: Solid Part 1 from 1558-1629(s)	Corpus: Solid Part 2 from 1630-1660(s) Corpus: Circa (c) Corpus: Maritime	Corpus: No Later Than (nl) Corpus: Orphans (nlo)	1. Unreliable Evidence 2. Reasoned Rejects
The Corpus Pictorum or body of illustrations contains those period illustrations which show information relating to the clothing of the common people of England and Wales between 1558 and 1660. The Corpus fills volumes 29, 30 and 31. Each image is classified as either Solid, No Later Than, Orphan, Circa or Maritime (see above) and the images are grouped firstly by those classifications and within those classicfications areordered chronologically. The Corpus Justified, volumes 27 & 28, explains why each llustration has been given the classification and corpus number it holds. Reasoned Rejects, volume 32, explains why certain images have been excluded from the corpus.			This volume contains 2 chapters. The first expands on some brief comments in Volume one on the problems with much of the pictorial evidence from the period and is based on a lecture tour given in 2011 entitled "ost of the Originial Evidence is Wrong". Chapter 2 provides systematic explanations image by image for the exclusions of many commonly used period illustrations from the corpus.
Volume 33: Surviving garments.	Volume 34: Abbreviations, Bibliography and Conclusions.	Volume 35: The Users Manual: a synoptic guide.	Volume 36: The English Abroad: Slaves, Colonists and Sailors.
		1. Materials - Fabrics, Haberdashery, The Colours of Clothing 2. Who Wore What and When 3. Mens' Doublets 4. Mens' Breeches 5. Men's Undergarments and Linens: Waistcoats, and Pettycoats, Shirts, Collars and Aprons 6. Men's Overgarmets: Jerkins, Mandillions and Cassocks, Coats, Gowns, Frocks and Cloaks 7. Womans' Garments and Overbodies: Petticoats and Overbodies, Kirtles and Cassocks 8. Woman's Waistcoats and Overgarments: Waistcoats, Gowns and Cloaks 9. Womans' Linens and Infants' Garments 10. Accessories: Stockings,Garters and Gloves, Headware and Footwear 11. Constructio of Replicas Appendix 1: Short Glossary Appendix 2: The Corpus [CP numbers]

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